“If you don’t eat the rare breed, the pig will become extinct,” I told the Vegetarian.
Perhaps the logic created a hole in the space-time continuum—I don’t know—but the debate ended there.
Besides the fact, heritage pig breeds provide sweet, succulent meat. Partly because the meat is marbled, but also because they’re raised in small numbers in a stress-free, natural environment. They’re not suited for intensive indoor farming, hence why they’re now rare.
They won’t be as cheap as your supermarket ham, but they taste better and you’ll be supporting Australian farmers; around 70% of the ham and bacon we consume comes from Denmark, Canada and the US.
Here are some farms that could provide bountiful bellies and happy hammage for your Christmas table. Contact them to chat about their methods and for any sales enquiries.
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NSW
Lauren and Lachlan Mathers run Bundarra Berkshires a free range pork farm located near Barham on the Murray River, in southern NSW. 
Established in 1994 by Stephen and Kim Roberts, Bundawarrah is a mixed farming enterprise “Ganowlea” at Temora, found on the edge of the South West Slopes and the Riverina regions of NSW. Their pigs are born and raised outdoors in a natural environment where they are able to express their normal behaviour under the watchful supervision of trained and welfare orientated stock persons.
Only natural farming methods are used on the Kundabung farm called Gaian Poultry. Water is collected from their pristine catchment. Holistic biodynamic and ecologically sustainable practices promote biodiversity, healthy soil, and negate the need for any chemical applications. Beth and Hayden McMillan run Tamworth, Wessex Saddleback, Berkshire and Large Black pigs.
A partnership between two farms, Graze and Flavour are passionate about farming heritage breeds. Their heritage Large Black pigs are from John and Julia Cordukes of Wollondale Rare Breeds, located near Goulburn. The pigs are free to roam and forage; they graze on pasture and breed just as they would in the wild.
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Highlands Heritage Pork is produced at Tre Porcellini, a 70-hectare farm near Moss Vale in the Southern Highland. Pasquale Multari and Cindy Bowman run 200-strong pigs, some of which are the English Large Blacks. They’re free to roam the fields in fenced but spacious enclosures, each containing huts where they can sleep or shelter from the elements. They feed only on natural grains and graze on pastures with no synthetics, fertilisers or chemicals.
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Ingelara is a biodynamic farm, south of Michelago, run by Tobias and Beatrice Koenig, Peter Bottomley and Gini Osborne. Their Wessex Saddlebacks are raised on a diverse diet of soaked grain, potato left after harvest, roots, grubs and bugs which they forage for in dark, sandy soil.
The systems of Brian and Kerry Wehlburg’s Kindee Valley Farm—located on the Mid North Coast, inland from Port Macquarie and Wauchope—work in harmony. The chicken manure improves the grass for the cattle. The cattle trample organic matter into the soils. The pigs (a mixed lot, including a Tamworth) are used for weed control, soil aeration and fertilisation.
Stephen and Jennifer Evans along with their two children Rhys and Olivia own and operate Limerick Free Range near Crookwell on the southern edge of the Central Tablelands. They keep a self replacing herd of Berkshires and use Landrace boars for their commercial pigs. The pigs live outdoors year round where they are free to graze, dig and generally express themselves as pigs are meant to.
The Caspar family produce Ormiston Free Range Pork, just outside Mudgee. They farm slow-growing Berkshire and cross-breeds (Landrace and Saddlebacks). Their pigs live outside their whole lives, free to express their natural behaviours. They’re fed a seasonal diet, including whey from the local cheese factory.
Matthew—2012 Nuffield Scholarship winner—and Sue Simmons run Melanda Park Free Range Pork in Ebenezer. Their pigs are born and raised in their paddocks, free from farrowing crates and sow stalls. A marriage of heritage and modern breeds has produced a sturdy forager, free to range the organic crops and pastures.
Alastair McLaren of Paddock to Plate runs free range Wessex Saddleback in the Hawkesbury Valley.
Quattro Seasons in Yass run Wessex Saddleback, Large Black and Black Berkshires on their farm. The meat they sell comes from the Berkshires; they’re free to roam and grow at their own pace. The pigs live a natural and useful life; they’re very efficient at ploughing up spaces in preparation for planting. They’re socialised in family groupings and so are easily contained by regular fencing configurations.
Sunforest organics farm is reknown for their turkeys and ducks, but Matthew Jamieson has more recently introduced Berkshire pigs. They’re free to run, graze, play, dig and show all the characteristics true to their nature, even forage in forest land, similar to their natural habitat.
VIC
The Wessex Saddleback pigs are free to forage on the 65-hectare property of Fernleigh Farms, located at Bullarto, near Daylesford. Nicholas and Fiona Chambers strongly believe that farm animals should be managed in a production system that allows them to freely exhibit all of their natural behaviours. Their ham is cooked slowly in a traditional smokehouse and can be ordered from their website.
Gippsland Pasturefed Meat practice biological farming; they conduct regular soil fertility tests, assess the quota of worms and good bacteria. They breed Wessex Saddleback pigs; they’re raised free-range so they can dig and play in the mud and dirt to their hearts content. They’re fed quality foods non-GM crushed mixed grain, fruit, vegetables and milk from their own milking cow.
Jordan and Chell Grasser of Grasser Farms raise rare breed pigs, including Large Black, Saddleback and Berkshire in Hallston, South Gippsland. They use biological farming practices to eliminate chemical intervention. Having good soil allows them to grow grass year round to feed the animals. Their pigs are free range and roam about in a natural healthy way. They also produce nitrate-free honey smoked ham.
Anthony and Amanda Kumnick of Greenvale Farm grow Wessex Saddlebacks, Tamworths and Berkshires on their 1100 acre property on the Hopkins River overlooking the Grampians. They’re raised in a true free range environment; they’re kept in outdoor paddocks. Quality Hams are crafted by Award winning smallgoods Butcher, Peter Bouchier. Follow @greenvalefarm on Twitter. Tip from @stickifingers
Greta Valley Free Range Pork is owned and run by Brian and Kim Smith. They produce free-range pork from their 30 Berkshire and Berkshire-Large Black breeding sows. Their pigs are free to roam, wallow, dig and have access to pasture. Their feed is mixed on-farm using their own grain as well as meat meal, fish meal, blood meal and vegetable oil to supplement this. They also eat vegetables supplied daily.
Bronwyn and Michael Cowan of West Gippsland grow Large Black, Tamworth, Wessex Saddleback and Berkshire pigs. They’re born, bred and raised outdoors, with constant access to shelter and water. The pork is marketed under the Gypsy Pig label; their ham—available on the bone for Christmas—is prepared by John Preston at Country Style Meats, Garfield. Tip from @stickifingers
The Jonas family (aka the Jonai) of Daylesford, tired of choosing between saving the world or savouring it, so they figured out a way to do both. Their pigs have what their farming hero Joel Salatin calls ‘one bad day’, and they shouldn’t even know it’s coming. In their daily lives, they respect what Salatin calls ‘the pigness of the pig’, and their animals are free to roam, root, and wallow as they would in the wild.
Robin and Elizabeth Behrendt of King Valley Free Range Pork raise free-range Large Black, Berkshire and Wessex Saddleback pigs in Milawa. They implement chemical-free pasture and stock management; they use lime minerals, seaweed brew and worm juice to balance their soils. Their ham is traditionally cured with salt, sugar, honey and wood smoke; it’s free from chemical nitrates.
Jason and Belinda Hagan of McIvor Farm in Tooborac are mindful of the environmental impact pigs can have on the land. They practice regenerating farming practices, building soil and ultimately producing premium healthy foods. Their free-range pigs are predominantly Berkshire old bred and Berkshire cross-bred; hams are smoked by David at Flora Hill Quality Meats.
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Anthony & Tina Dufty run Wessex Saddleback and Duroc pigs in Myrniong. They produce ham under the Old Style Organic brand. Two other certified organic farms supply their operation.
Family-owned Spingfield Pork began with Abbey and Matt Brown’s desire to raise and breed their own livestock for personal consumption. They took comfort knowing that their stock had grazed freely on their acreage and were treated with respect. Their herd consists of Large Black gilts and sows, soon to incorporate the Berkshire breed, crossed with their Large White and Duroc boars.
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Katy Brown and her partner Craig Beaumont farm eight rare breeds of pigs and produce them commercially. Along with a handful of other dedicated breeders on properties at Strathfieldsaye and Huntly, they are fighting to preserve genetics that they believe will be important to future generations.
Nestled in the foothills of the Dandenong Ranges, lies Eastwind Rare Breeds Farm. Christine Ross produces Yarra Valley Free Range Pork from heritage pedigreed Large Black Pigs. The pigs are genuine free-range and graze on the lush pastures of the Yarra Valley without chemical inputs and with minimal intervention. The ham is produced by Rod Falkner of Yarra Glen Quality Meats.
Neil and Olivia Johnstone of Wooragee Quality Free Range Pork run Berkshire and Large Black crosses on their farm. They use a paddock rotation system to ensure the consistent supply of natural fodder and to protect the waterways from erosion. Their pigs roam on natural vegetation, with a varied chemical-free diet of selected local grains, seasonal chestnuts and fruit.
ACT
Michael, Elizabeth, Katina and Briana Croft run Mountain Creek Farm, located at Weston. Their Wessex Saddlebacks are free to range on biodynamic pastures and are fed quality food, free of chemical additives. They also have access to clean water at all times, access to wallows, access to shelters for protection from the elements, and are also protected from predators.
QLD
Meg and Wil Seller’s pigs at Bottle Tree Hill Organics, a 540 acre South Burnett Farm, are grown naturally as they should be; the proof is in the tasting. They grow primarily Saddleback pigs who are able to graze in the wide open spaces, as they please, having access to shelter, shade and wallows in a developing permaculture system. Here they can exhibit their natural behaviours from birth onwards.
Denise of Marlee-may Farm runs Wessex Saddleback pigs. They’re raised true free range; they’re paddock born and raised, free to run and graze with shelter from the elements.
Belinda Marriage & Tim Rudduck are the owner/operators of Tillari Trotters, a small farm in Karara that grows and breeds Stud Tamworth Pigs. Unlike commercial enterprises that may breed pigs for growth and weight gain, they breed for flavour, temperament of animals and mothering ability.
SA
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Warren Smith’s Minniribbie Farm, near Coffin Bay, Eyre Peninsula grows and processes Berkshire pigs that are truly free to roam on their 225 acre farm. They don’t use any chemicals on the farm, nor give the pigs any growth hormones or feed additives. They process the pigs themselves in their fully licensed and accredited facilities. Contact them for old-fashioned smoked ham.
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Joy and Colin Lienert established the world renowned Lynjoleen Berkshire Stud in 1955. Their mixed-farm property is based at Shea-Oak Log in the Barossa Valley. They feed their pigs grains—wheat, barley and peas—which they grow on the farm. Their blood lines are highly regarded in Australia and internationally.
WA
Chris & Jill Milford run Wessex Saddleback pigs on Benara Farm, a 23 acre property in the South West of Western Australia. 
East of Perth, Spencers Brook Farm use crop rotations and livestock to enrich the soil and deter weeds. Berkshire piglets stay with their mother for nearly three months, then are turned out into the paddocks. They remain together until they leave the farm. In addition to the grazing, the pigs are fed a diet of grains and supplemented by hay in summer to aid their digestion.
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Jarrahdene Pork is produced by David and Sandy Hohnenon (of Cape Mentelle and Cloudy Bay wines) on their 121-hectare property just south of Witchcliffee. They run a mixed bunch of stock: Tamworth, Berkshire, Duroc and large whites. They’re free to root around for grubs, forage in eucalypt woodlands for grubs and have access to water for wallowing and swimming.
Merri Bee Organic Farm is a Permaculture that’s been developing slowly for 25 years on the banks of the Blackwood in Nannup. It’s home to Stewart Seesink, Bee Winfield and their son Lee. They produce the only organic pork in Western Australia from three mixed-race sows and one Berkshire boar.
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Rob Bradley began breeding Berkshire pigs in 1969 and currently runs 70.
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Peter and Cathy Bradford run Killara Open Range Pork situated near Boyup Brook in the South West of W.A. Their open-range pigs are run across 20-hectare grassy paddocks year round, with shelter from the elements during summer and winter. They graze on various grasses and eat when they choose from feeders containing high quality feed grown on the farm.
TAS
Don and Keryn Thomson of Black Ridge Farm run their Wessex Saddlebacks in paddocks of an acre, in small groups or families of up to 11 weaners or 4-6 adult sows. Each paddock has a shelter, feeder, fresh water and a wallowing hole. They feed on pastures as well as crushed grains; they’re free to forage for grubs in our beautiful friable volcanic soils.
Crofton Lea Farm in Beaconsfield is where Lee and Jessica Christmas run pasture-raised Wessex Saddleback, Large Black, Tamworth and Duroc pigs. The pigs are fed different fruits and grains to influence the flavour of their flesh. Juicing apples makes their flesh sweet. Grass makes the pork gamier. Whilst barley makes it nuttier. Lee is a butcher and chef; he cures the ham himself. Tip from @GreenvaleFarm
Mount Gnomon Farm rests against the pristine Dial Range in north-west Tasmania. Guy Robertson and Eliza Wood are passionate about producing ethically-raised meat with minimal impact on the environment. They specialise in free range Wessex Saddleback pigs, a heritage breed that produces marbled, tasty meat. Their ham is cured and packaged at Pandani Select Foods at Somerset.
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Nicholls Rivulet Organic Farm in the scenic Huon Valley, is a mixed organic enterprise established by Deborah and Gerard Crochon. Their free-range Berkshire pigs graze on organic pasture and vegetables from the garden. The pigs have open plan housing and are free to roam and wallow at will.
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The black Berkshire and Wessex Saddlebacks of Matthew Evan’s Puggle Farm come from small farmlets south of Hobart, in the Huon Valley and on Bruny Island. Their pigs are either female or immature males, and have a diet that could include apples, cherries, potatoes, grass and whey that’s created in the process of cheesemaking at Bruny Island Cheese Company.
Contribute: If you know a farm that should be here, email me at info AT flavourcrusader DOT com
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